Review: Woodford Reserve Four Wood Bourbon

Last Tuesday I posted about the latest release as a part of Woodford Reserve’s annual Master’s Collection release. For more insight on this release please check out the post here.

I received an advanced sample of this new whiskey. Here are my thoughts

Woodford Reserve Master’s Collection Four Wood Bourbon, 47.2% abv (94.4 Proof), $99/bottle
Color: Deep Amber
Nose: Sweet and fruity – butter pecan, maple and toffee meets lush ripe orchard fruits (peach,, golden delicious apple, and muscadine jelly). An almost floral oak aroma adds interest.
Palate: Rustic, youthful, and corn laden up front on the palate. Maple and butter pecan flavors add needed sweetness before a drying oak tannin builds. The fruit hints at showing but never quite breaks through.
Finish: Buttered corn, maple sweetness, and bitter tannin.
Overall: Four Wood begins with an epic bang. The nose is absolutely phenomenal with lush fruit and candy shop sweets everywhere. It’s truly gorgeous and as unique a nose in all of whiskey. And that’s where things sort of get all wobbly. The palate is a patchwork of disjointed flavors with awkward transitions through the sip on to the finish. Frankly it’s a bit of a mess – not without some high points, but never coming together. It tastes a lot more youthful than standard Woodford. What I’m left with is too much of the toasted maple wood dryness on the palate and not enough of the fruit and lushness that the nose demonstrates. It’s not bad whiskey, in fact it begins (as I noted) with a boom, but it finishes with a flutter. Not something I’d recommend at this price. I’m a fan of Woodford Reserve. It gets piled on by enthusiasts but I’ve always felt it’s a very good, quality bourbon. The Master’s Collection releases however come across as a complete money grab by Brown-Forman. That I cannot get behind.
Sour Mash Manifesto Rating: 7.2 (Good)

Woodford releases new “Four Wood” Bourbon

Each year Woodford Reserve releases a limited edition whsikey as a part of their Master’s Collection. The collection refers to Master Distiller, Chris Morris’s utilization, or focus, on one of five components in the whiskey making process – grain, water, fermentation, distillation, and maturation.

The latest Master’s Collection release is Four Wood Bourbon, which is mature Woodford Reserve (which ages in new oak barrels like all bourbon) that is put through a “finishing” process (additional maturation/aging) in Maple Wood, Port Wood, and Sherry Wood barrels. It’s not known as of yet, where the Port and Sherry barrels were sourced, but I’m going to try to find out. Each of these barrels were married together in varied proportions to create the finished bourbon.

I must admit that I’ve had very mixed experiences with the Master’s Collection products. At their best the whiskeys have been “very good” (Maple Wood Finish), and at their worst (last year’s Rare Rye) they’ve been terrible. At a retail price of $99.99, there’s some risk involved for the consumer.

This Four Wood Bourbon however has me very intrigued. I should point out that I’m “bought in” on the whole “finished whiskey” thing that has caught on with distillers and independent bottlers in recent years. Is it gimmicky sounding? Perhaps. But there’s no question that finishing in Port wood barrels moved Angel’s Envy from a merely good bourbon to something of definite merit. Last years Parker’s Heritage Collection, which was finished in cognac barrels was downright superb – one of my highest rated whiskeys of the year. Hooker’s House, a bourbon finished in pinot noir barrels, didn’t disappoint either. In short – my experiences with many of these finished whiskeys has been good.

Each bottle of Four Wood will be offered at 750M, retail at $99.99, and at 94.4 proof. Will Four Wood set a higher standard for the Master’s Collection series? I’m expecting to try it within the next week – my thoughts and review will follow soon after.

Review: Four Roses 2012 Limited Edition Single Barrel Bourbon

Four Roses 2012 Limited Edition Single Barrel came out in May of this year. Unfortunately I was unable to get a bottle here in the Nashville area until August. Four Roses has three standard products – the “Yellow” label, Small Batch, and Single Barrel bourbon. The later is a top value pour in my book, but I usually can’t wait to see what the distillery puts out in their Limited Edition releases each Spring. With 10 recipes for which to choose from, Four Roses has near limitless options at their disposal.

This years release is the OESK mashbill, the distillery’s lower rye recipe at 75% corn, 20% rye, and 5% malted barley. The “K” in the designation stands for the yeast strain – which amplifies and enhances the spice aromas and flavors in the whiskey. For anyone suspect to Four Roses’ claims, trust me when I say, “yeast matters!”. Having spent some time with Jim Rutledge nosing and tasting every recipe, yeast is possibly the most under-appreciated “flavor factor” in whiskey making.

Four Roses 2012 Limited Edition Single Barrel Bourbon, 55.6% abv (111.2Proof), $69/bottle
Barrel Info: Barrel 81-3E, aged 12 years
Color: Deep Amber
Nose: Big plumes of maple and barrel sugars, peanut brittle, nougat, peach preserves, hints of cinnamon, and old wood. One of the best noses of the year – unreal.
Palate: Maple, brown sugar, caramel apple, and a swift uppercut of spice notes (cinnamon, nutmeg, and chili flake).
Finish: Long and lingering warmth, spices, and maple sweetness.
Overall: For me it’s a top 5 whiskey of the year at this stage. The “K” yeast strain’s spicy influence elevates a sweet and fruity pour. What impresses me most about Four Roses is their bourbons are unlike any other distillery, at their best achieving a great balance of sweetness, spice, and fruit. The 2012 Limited Edition Single Barrel is superb with added depth. It doesn’t come cheap, but it’s well worth the price of admission. Here’s my suggestion: while most lament the fact that they missed a Buffalo Trace Antique Collection whiskey, just walk into your local shop, grab this and smile knowing you have something at least as good.
Sour Mash Manifesto Rating: 9.5 (Superb)

Most Wanted

This weekend I was pondering the world of whiskey and in particular what I’d most like to see from producers. Obviously, for a whiskey lover, spending too much time on this subject could yield a rather long list. Outside of easy availability for all for the Buffalo Trace Antique Collection and Van Winkle products, here are a few things I’d love to see:

George Dickel Barrel Strength No. 12: George Dickel is probably my favorite distillery. Is it because they produce the best whiskey? No – not exactly. I do love their 12 year old and Barrel Select, and it’s such a quaint, beautiful distillery tucked into a remote hollow in the southern portion of Middle Tennessee. I hate the fact that it’s treated as second class by the parent company, Diageo. Anyways, I would love to try a barrel proof version of their No. 12. I don’t think this one will ever see the light of day. Diageo uses Dickel essentially as a barrel producer for the company’s main whiskey brand, Johnnie Walker. Don’t plan on them doing any special releases that might divert away from their primary mission. Hey, a man can dream though.

Older (17+ year) Four Roses: This kind of goes against Four Roses Master Distiller, Jim Rutledge’s, philosophy on great bourbon. He believes bourbon hits a sweet spot between 8-12 years. I’d be a fool to think I know more than a thimble full of the whiskey knowledge Jim possesses, but I can’t help thinking that their single story aging process would make for some stellar older bourbons(17-20 years). Aging whiskey in a single story warehouse (5-6 barrels high) puts the whiskey through a less volatile aging process. If you’ve tasted many Four Roses products, what you’ll notice in most cases is well integrated oak – it’s a component and not the star of the show. Every now and then we get a taste of some older juice in the Four Roses Limited Edition Small Batch releases, but it’s usually mingled with 10-12 year old bourbon. What I want to see is either a blend of older bourbons or some single barrels. Are you listening Four Roses?

Four Roses Rye: Four Roses makes it on my list again here. It’s widely known that Four Roses uses more rye grain in their “B” mash bill than just about any other bourbon. A distillery that does that as well as Four Roses I’m sure could produce some outstanding rye whiskey. More than that, I’d be keenly interested in seeing how Four Roses’ 5 yeast strains influence a final rye whiskey. Talk about a hell of a lot a options. Will we see it? Rye whiskey isn’t going anywhere, and provided Four Roses can add it to their product line without hurting bourbon production, I think we will see it one day. Check out my three part discussion with Jim from 2011. He talks about rye a little bit. The reason it’s not an easy decision is because Four Roses, in spite of the history, is still a young brand (reintroduced in the U.S. in the last decade). It has taken tremendous efforts just to get the primary product lines (Yellow Label, Small Batch, and Single Barrel) entrenched. That’s a smart business model for sure – do a few things REALLY well, but I think it’s time for Four Roses to branch out. A rye whiskey is the perfect way to do so. The bad part is we’ll have to wait a long time before it would be properly aged. I’m patient though.

These are just a few things I’d like to see from a couple of producers. What about you? Let’s hear what you’d most like to see.

Review: Evan Williams “White Label” Bottled in Bond Bourbon

Finding a great whiskey value can feel a little like Christmas morning for me. There’s something wonderful about getting a hold of a whiskey that brings great aroma and flavor at a ridiculous price point. But let’s also be honest. The “bottom shelf” is filled with whiskeys that are overly sweet, syrupy, and flabby. More times than not you end up with something you wish you hadn’t taken home. Hopefully I can help a little bit by weeding through some of that.

The subject of today’s review is Evan Williams “White Label”. It’s a bottled in bond whiskey at 100 proof and 50% alcohol, and costs less than $15. I was able to purchase it around $12.00 in Franklin, TN. Thanks to Greg over at BourbonDork for recommending I give it a try.

Evan Williams Bottled in Bond “White Label” Bourbon, 50% abv (100 Proof), $12.00/bottle
Color: Medium Amber
Nose: Sweet Corn, vanilla custard, and banana dominate with some gentle notes of oak and wood spices.
Palate: At any price this is a well balanced whiskey. Again, sweet flavors of banana, vanilla fudge, and caramel sweetness. The palate, perhaps due to the proof, is a bit warmer and spicier than the nose eluded. From mid palate, cinnamon, clove, and barrel spices pop.
Finish: Warm with wood spices, caramel, and vanilla fudge. Moderate in length.
Overall: I’m a big fan of the Evan Williams White Label. I put off trying it sooner because I was concerned it might not be worth the time. That goes to show you to never judge a whiskey by the shelf it sits on. This bottled in bond bourbon is full flavored, well balanced with spice and sweetness, and is extremely versatile. It’ll be a Pyle household staple from this point forward I can assure you (take a look at how much was out of the bottle I reviewed if that tells you anything). At this price point it’s tough to beat. Next time you are in your local whiskey shop, while everyone’s checking out the expensive stuff at eye level, bend down and grab this simple looking bottle of Evan Williams. If you love bourbon I don’t think you’ll be sorry you did.
Sour Mash Manifesto Rating: 8.9 (Outstanding)

Starting a Whiskey Club

One question I get asked an awful lot is how to start a whiskey club or society – a place where people with a common passion can get together a number of times a year and enjoy great whiskey (and great company). While some of it might be pretty logical, I have yet to start a club myself. After receiving a rash of emails a few weeks back I thought I’d go straight to the source – someone that’s started a thriving whiskey club from the ground up.

About 18 months or so ago I met Vince Carida online through comments on this site as well as other whiskey sites across the internet. In April of 2011 I was in Chicago at the Hyatt Regency for WhiskeyFest – Chicago. A few hours after arriving and checking in, I hopped on a elevator on my way to the lobby to grab a drink when this guy said, “Hey Jason!” I looked up and got my first face to face introduction to Vince. Since that time I’ve been able to meet up with Vince a time or two, and have gotten to know him better.

Here’s the thing about Vince’s whiskey club, the Owensboro Bourbon Society – it’s really really well done. He’s engaging, very knowledgeable, and his club is very focused on one category of whiskey. Below Vince has been so gracious as to post about starting OBS, and all the things that went into making that club a success.

Establishing a Bourbon Society

Kentucky is known for three things; fast horses, beautiful women and great whiskey! I was fortunate to move to Owensboro, KY 4 years ago (from New Jersey) for the love of a beautiful woman (my wife is from Owensboro). I have always been a bourbon enthusiast but I don’t think I was prepared for the expanded options of bourbon made available to me in the “motherland”.

I fell in love with Kentucky and the history and heritage associated with this uniquely American product. I soon wanted to know everything about bourbon, how it was made, what impacts flavor, the history of each distillery and also the history of bourbon in the town in which I lived. I purchased every book I could find, joined great websites like this one and and visited every distillery multiple times. The deeper I delved into this subject the more fascinating it became. It is rare when a particular process has both a scientific and an artistic element to it, but that is exactly what the making of whiskey provides.

As my journey continued I found one thing missing, and that was other bourbon enthusiasts to share my passion with. I also realized that most people in Kentucky knew they liked bourbon but knew little else about the history and process involved in producing it. That is when I decided to form the Owensboro Bourbon Society.

I had formed a Limited Liability Company (LLC) in 2010 called “RiverCreek Distillery”. It is still a dream of mine to produce bourbon and if that dream comes to reality the bourbon will be called RiverCreek. I then formed a “Doing business as” (DBA) under the LLC and named it the Owensboro Bourbon Society. I really did not know what to expect with this Society. Was it going to be 5 or 6 people getting together every month to try different bourbons? That would have been fine but my goal was a little more far reaching. I wanted to engage a community while achieving my desired result of meeting bourbon enthusiasts.

There is an old saying that if you want to “talk the talk” you better be able to “walk the walk”. I wanted my Bourbon Society to be a “brand” and a quality one at that. I had a logo designed and then I purchased high quality letterhead and business cards. I also hired a web developer to develop a web site for me. (Please feel free to check out I also called Mike Veach of the Filson Historical Society. Mike is the foremost bourbon historian in the world and also established the Bourbon Society in Louisville. Mike provided great insight into not only the things he found successful but also pitfalls to avoid.

So, now I have a web site, some nice letterhead, an LLC. All I need now are members!
What should be the membership fee and what would a member receive when they joined? I called a woman in town who designs shirts and I got a price on making an Owensboro Bourbon Society polo shirt or Button down shirt. I then priced out the cost of having an engraved OBS Glencairn glass. I then concluded that every member would get a membership card which would provide value in one way or another. I set the initial membership fee at $75 for the first year and then $50 in subsequent years. I went to a Liquor store in town (where I buy a lot of bourbon) and asked if they would provide a discount to my members. They agreed to discount the bourbons we would be featuring at our monthly meeting. I then went to a great bourbon bar, Spirits at the Miller House, and they quickly joined my society and offered my membership a 10% discount on bourbon flights.

Now I had value to provide and a price to join. Next obstacles were where would the meetings take place? when would the meetings take place?, what would the format for the meetings be? My goal was to always provide a historical perspective to each meeting, and always taste bourbon. Beyond that was the great unknown. Would I be able to get guest speakers? Owensboro is 2-3 hours away from the big distilleries.

I decided that we would meet once a month and it would always be the third Wednesday of every month. That would allow members to schedule events appropriately. I was able to secure two locations for the meetings, the Medley Distillery (which is silent but still hosts weddings, etc) and The Miller House, a restaurant with a second floor that could be reserved for my meetings.

I went to J’s Liquors and asked if they would send an e-mail out to their “wine tasting” mailing list and advise them that I was starting a Bourbon Society. If anyone wanted additional information they could contact me. I had about 10 people contact me. I then sent a letter to every master distiller outlining the charter of the Owensboro Bourbon Society and asked each if they would consider being a guest speaker.

Our first meeting was in March of 2011. 12 people showed up and we tasted the Van Winkle line of bourbons, from the 10 year old right up to the 23 year old. The second meeting our membership was up to about 20 people. I then was contacted by Jim Rutledge of Four Roses who said he would love to come to Owensboro and speak to my Society. He spoke at our third meeting (we had about 25 people there).

Since then I have had the good fortune to have the likes of Charles Medley, Rob Samuels, Tom Bulleit, Bernie Lubbers, Brad Boswell (President of Independent Stave) and Wes and Kyle Henderson speak at my society. We are having Chris Morris as our guest speaker in July. We also have taken two distillery tours, one at Buffalo Trace which ended with a tasting with Harlen Wheatley and another at Makers Mark which ended with an evening cocktail at the home of Bill Samuels.

The membership in the society has grown to over 80 members with people joining all of the time. We just completed our first annual Bourbon & Jazz Festival in Owensboro which was a huge success. My initial goal (meeting people who enjoyed bourbon) has more than been realized as I have developed deep friendships with many of my members. Starting a bourbon society has provided me with a passion that is enjoyable and rewarding. The Bourbon Journey is just beginning and I can’t wait to see what the future has in store!


Vince Carida
Owensboro Bourbon Society

Perhaps you don’t want a large club – that’s fine. Scale things down and start small. There is nothing that says your whiskey club can’t be more than a half dozen people each bringing a bottle and sitting around and chatting and enjoying the brown stuff. You may not need or want a website to start. Begin small with the understanding that you can grow slowly and organically. It can be set up any way you want.

Whatever size or type of whiskey club you wish to have, Vince has provided some excellent points worth considering. I’ll summarize some of them as well as add a few:

– Have a clear understanding of what you want out of your club. Remember, you have to really want to do this. Don’t do it for anything but the fun of it. Much like Sku wrote recently about Whiskey Blogging – you have to have a passion and desire to start a club. It’s not glamorous and it’s work, but it’s great fun if you love it.
– Talk to liquor stores that you frequent and check on getting a discount for your members. This is a win win for both the club and the store. However, be careful here. Liquor stores get approached for similar things like this frequently. If you don’t have a store you frequent often, I don’t recommend broaching this subject with a prospective store without feeling things out a little. Go to a few local shops, ask questions, talk to the owners and staff, explain what you are looking to accomplish. If you do that properly (i.e. sincerely) you may very well foster a great new relationship with a shop that will help you grow (and/or sustain) your membership.
– Use social media and online resources to start inexpensively. A simple private FaceBook page or Google+ group could serve as your group website and communication bulletin to start. There are so many tools to help you limit up front costs.
– If you are in an area where you can leverage industry experts – don’t be afraid to do so. You’ll find brand ambassadors and industry vets love nothing more than to talk about whiskey to people interested in learning.

A special thank you to Vince for providing some fantastic insight. Rather than bombard Vince with a boatload of emails, if you have some specific questions, please feel free to ask them here. I’ll coordinate with Vince to stop by when he can and post some responses.

Drink your whiskey!